On Friday, I went to a public lecture on alternative culture and urban spaces that was part of an alternative cultures project coordinated by the Open Society Archives, the most amazing archival resource that I just want to fall in to and get lost for about a month. The talk was held at one of the venerable Budapestian institutions - a semi-squatted courtyard complex in District VII, the old Jewish quarter.
Tűzraktér is a pretty great space. New to me, having opened last year around the time I was heading back to the states. And like many attempts to reclaim unused urban spaces, set for demolition by the end of the year.
This is, in fact, my favourite parts of Budapest. Not the demolition, but the way thoughtful groups come http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.giftogether to reclaim spaces, and in a way that makes them accessible to everyone. Like the pussy willows and daffodils, places and people spring up all over this city once the sun starts to come out in April. Nearly every available pitch of park or abandoned courtyard makes way for a cafe, bar or club in the spring and summer months. My favorite is Corvin teto, a rooftop bar atop an old socialist department store. An building that is a glorious monument to corrugated steel. And one slated for demolition some time next year.
This is also the story of cafe culture in Budapest: grab it while you can!
I should write more about the talk itself. In summary, there are a few key things I learned: 1) There are really interesting debates about urban space taking place in Slovenia including a former prison turned youth hostel that I actually stayed at once and how alternative is indeed a tricky, slippery and decidedly relative term; 2) always invite a Ukrainian because they travel with bottles of local vodka and like to share; 3) never let anarchists arrange something prior to that which is supposed to start on time.
05 April 2009
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